Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
Lisbon is a terrific place to tour. I'd especially recommend it, though, as a real gem as a place for an extended stay. Whether you're enjoying a professional sabbatical, an extended vacation that allows you to settle into the rhythms of a place, living the ex-pat life, or are looking for the perfect spot to hole-up while writing your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
There you have it: some of the very best neighborhoods in which to live during an extended stay in Lisbon. In the end, of course, it comes down to personal taste. Whatever your preference, though, rest assured, Lisbon can provide it. If the opportunity presents itself, whatever your tastes, I can't urge you enough to not miss out on the chance to get to know one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
Lisbon is a terrific place to tour. I'd especially recommend it, though, as a real gem as a place for an extended stay. Whether you're enjoying a professional sabbatical, an extended vacation that allows you to settle into the rhythms of a place, living the ex-pat life, or are looking for the perfect spot to hole-up while writing your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
There you have it: some of the very best neighborhoods in which to live during an extended stay in Lisbon. In the end, of course, it comes down to personal taste. Whatever your preference, though, rest assured, Lisbon can provide it. If the opportunity presents itself, whatever your tastes, I can't urge you enough to not miss out on the chance to get to know one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
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